Why do dogs have a third eyelid?

When your pup climbs on your chest while you're lying on your back on the couch, look at him. I mean really look him. Man to pup square in the eye. Do you notice something you've never noticed before? Franklin, your Chihuahua couch potato partner, has not one, not two, but three eyelids. Three eyelids? Is something wrong with Franklin? Yes and no. Franklin, like all dogs, was born with a third eyelid. But if you can actually see eyelid number three, that could be a clear sign that something's wrong.
There's nothing abnormal about a dog having a third eyelid because they all have one. The third eyelid even has its own name: the nictitating membrane, or haw. These membranes are the same in different breeds and sizes of dogs, although the pigmentation of the third eyelid may vary from breed to breed. Some are very clear while other dogs have cloudy third eyelids.
When the nictitating membrane closes across a dog's eye, it looks as though his eye is rolling back in his head. In fact, sometimes when he sleeps, the upper and lower eyelids open making it appear he has all white eyeballs because the third eyelid is closed.
Other than the ability to wear the latest smoky eye shadow, eyelids serve a real purpose. It's a skin and muscle fold that we voluntarily open or close over our eyeballs to protect them. Human eyes have both an upper lid and a lower lid. Dogs have those too, plus a "third lid" in the inner corner of their eyes under the lower lid.
Deborah S. Friedman, D.V.M. and diplomate with the American College of Veterinary Ophthalmologists says that there are four functions of the third eyelid in dogs. First, it acts as a "windshield-washer" for the cornea (the clear window in front of the eye). "It clears debris and mucus off of the cornea," she explains. Also, the gland of the third eyelid produces about one-third of the dog's tears. The third eyelid contains lymphoid tissue which acts as a lymph node and produces antibodies to fight infection. Finally, it protects the cornea from injury. The human eyelid also protects and nourishes the human cornea, but it performs similar functions with two eyelids as opposed to three.
Dogs aren't the only animals with nictitating membranes. Birds, cats, reptiles, fish, and camels also have three eyelids. They keep the animals' eyes moist in the face of wind, sand or dirt without them having to blink. This is very useful when hunting for prey that could be missed during that split second of blinking time.
On our next page, we'll talk about ways to solve some problems with the third eyelid.

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Top 5 Reasons Your Cat Might Be Losing Weight

Has your cat ever gone from a happy diner to a fickle patron, refusing to eat the supper he usually gobbles right up? Or is your cat still eating, but seeming to lose weight anyway? The inner workings of a beloved feline have left many a pet parent scratching his head in worry, and according to the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA), it's difficult to say what the normal weight is for cats due to the variations in breeds and individuals. There are several reasons why your cat could be losing weight, and many are easily remedied with adjustments to his diet. Read on to learn more about the most common explanations for feline weight loss.

5: Messy Mealtimes

You wouldn't want to eat off of dirty dishes, and your cat probably doesn't either. So if she's suddenly finicky, review your serving habits and make some adjustments to keep your cat's cuisine fresh and clean. If you use dry cat food, store it in an airtight container to retain freshness. You can probably get away with cleaning your cat's food bowl weekly if the food is dry, but if wet morsels make your feline purr, then clean the plate after each meal. Always have fresh water available, and wash the water bowl out once a day to keep hair and debris out of the drink. Finally, the ASPCA recommends that you consider the proximity of the litter box to the food station. Would you want to eat in your bathroom? Kitty probably doesn't either. If these quick tricks don't solve the issue, your cat's weight loss could be stress-related.

4: Stress

Your cat's environment can also affect weight loss, so make sure mealtimes are quiet and that your feline can feast uninterrupted by other animals or people. Some cats get depressed or show signs of anxiety when boarded, so consider asking a close friend to pet-sit if your kitty protests your vacation by fasting.

Believe it or not, some cats will develop anorexia -- refusal to eat -- just like humans. Sometimes a health issue brings on this condition, but according to the ASPCA, it can often be attributed to stress or a psychological disorder. If your cat's refusal to eat lasts more than a day and Zen dining doesn't seem to help, call your vet immediately to rule out a bigger issue and reduce the risk of fatty liver disease.

3: Intestinal Problems

Your feline could be suffering from a number of common gastrointestinal issues that might be causing him to lose weight. Food allergies or a new intolerance could be the culprit for the sudden slim-down, but there could be something more sinister lurking within your cat's intestines: parasites. The most common is the roundworm, and while some kittens might get infected through their mother's milk, most adult cats that contract worms do so through a rodent. If your cat is notorious for bringing home a catch, check his feces for any spaghetti-like worms. Your vet can prescribe medication to de-worm your cat. If it's a different gastrointestinal issue, a new diet formulated for your cat's special needs often solves the problem.

2: Old Age

The older your cat gets, the more likely he is to show changes in weight -- while some senior felines plump up, others might slim down. A decreased sense of smell and dental disease are both likely culprits. According to the ASPCA, elderly cats can also suffer from constipation or changes in metabolism that could cause a noticeable weight loss. Talk to your veterinarian about your senior cat's diet and get regular senior pet checkups to catch any issues early. Some easy adjustments, like adding fiber, can help keep your feline healthy during his golden years.

1: Diseases and Disorders

If you've eliminated all of the other common explanations for weight loss, your veterinarian might conduct tests to rule out any maladies for which weight loss is a common symptom, such as cancer. The best thing you can do to make sure you catch any serious issues early is to weigh your cat regularly and track his weight. While sudden shifts are more noticeable, a gradual weight loss could go undetected until the disease has progressed. It's also important to keep your cat's teeth clean and free of tartar to avoid dental disease, which can progress to the kidneys and liver.

If your cat is losing weight, try some of these tips and consult with your vet about the best course of treatment to get Kitty back in tip-top shape.

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Hip Dysplasia: Diagnosis - Treatment - Prevention

Canine hip dysplasia is a very common degenerative joint disease seen in dogs. There are many misconceptions surrounding it. There are many things that we know about hip dysplasia in dogs, there are also many things we suspect about this common cause of limping, and there are some things that we just do not know about the disease. We will cover all of those here and hope to separate out fact, theory, hypothesis, and opinion.
What is hip dysplasia?

To understand what hip dysplasia really is we must have a basic understanding of the joint that is being affected. The hip joint forms the attachment of the hind leg to the body and is a ball and socket joint. The ball portion is the head of the femur while the socket (acetabulum) is located on the pelvis. In a normal joint, the ball rotates freely within the socket. To facilitate movement, the bones are shaped to perfectly match each other, with the socket surrounding the ball. To strengthen the joint, the two bones are held together by a ligament. The ligament attaches the femoral head directly to the acetabulum. Also, the joint capsule, which is a very strong band of connective tissue, encircles the two bones adding further stability. The area where the bones actually touch each other is called the articular surface. It is perfectly smooth and cushioned with a layer of spongy cartilage. In the normal dog, all of these factors work together to cause the joint to function smoothly and with stability.

Hip dysplasia results from the abnormal development of the hip joint in the young dog. It may or may not be bilateral, affecting both right and left sides. It is brought about by the laxity of the muscles, connective tissue, and ligaments that should support the joint. Most dysplastic dogs are born with normal hips, but due to genetic and possibly other factors, the soft tissues that surround the joint start to develop abnormally as the puppy grows. The most important part of these changes is that the bones are not held in place, but actually move apart. The joint capsule and the ligament between the two bones stretch, adding further instability to the joint. As this happens, the articular surfaces of the two bones lose contact with each other. This separation of the two bones within a joint is called subluxation and this, and this alone, causes all of the resulting problems we associate with the disease.
What are the symptoms of hip dysplasia?

Dogs of all ages are subject to the symptoms of hip dysplasia and the resultant osteoarthritis. In severe cases, puppies as young as five months will begin to show pain and discomfort during and after vigorous exercise. The condition will worsen until even normal daily activities are painful. Without intervention, these dogs may be unable to walk at all by a couple years of age. In most cases, however, the symptoms do not begin to show until the middle or later years in the dog's life.

The symptoms are typical for those seen with other causes of osteoarthritis. Dogs may walk or run with an altered gait, often resisting movements that require full extension or flexion of the rear legs. Many times, they run with a 'bunny hopping' gait. They will show stiffness and pain in the rear legs after exercise or first thing in the morning. Most dogs will warm up out of the muscle stiffness with movement and exercise. Some dogs will limp and many will decrease their level of activity. As the condition progresses, the dogs will lose muscle tone and may even need assistance in getting up. Many owners attribute the changes to normal aging, but after treatment is initiated, they are shocked to see much more normal and pain-free movement return.
Who gets hip dysplasia?

Hip dysplasia can be found in dogs, cats, and humans, but for this article, we are concentrating only on dogs. In dogs, it is primarily a disease of large and giant breeds. The disease can occur in medium-sized breeds and rarely even in small breeds. It is primarily a disease of purebreds although it can happen in mixed breeds, particularly if it is a cross of two dogs that are prone to developing the disease. German Shepherds, Labrador Retrievers, Rottweillers, Great Danes, Golden Retrievers, and St. Bernards appear to have a higher incidence, however, these are all very popular breeds and may be over represented because of their popularity. On the other end Greyhounds and Borzois have a very low incidence of the disease.

What are the risk factors for the development of hip dysplasia?


Hip dysplasia is caused by looseness in the hip joint. The looseness creates abnormal wear and erosion of the joint and as a result pain and arthritis develops. The disease process is fairly straightforward; the controversy starts when we try to determine what predisposes animals to contract the disease. Almost all researchers agree that there is a genetic link involved. If a parent has hip dysplasia, then the offspring are at greater risk for developing hip dysplasia. Some researchers feel that genetics are the only factor involved, where others feel that genetics contribute less than 25% to the development of the disease. The truth probably lies in the middle. If there are no carriers of hip dysplasia in a dog's lineage, then it will not contract the disease. If there are genetic carriers, then it may contract the disease. We can greatly reduce the incidence of hip dysplasia through selective breeding. We can also increase the incidence through selectively breeding. We cannot, however, completely reproduce the disease through selective breeding. In other words, if you breed two dysplastic dogs, the offspring are much more likely to develop the disease, but will not all have the same level of symptoms or even necessarily show any symptoms. The offspring from these dogs will, however, be carriers and the disease may show up in their offspring in later generations. This is why it can be difficult to eradicate the disease from a breed or specific line.

Nutrition: Experimentally, we can increase the severity of the disease in genetically susceptible animals in a number of ways. One of them is through obesity. It stands to reason that carrying around extra weight will exacerbate degeneration of the joint in a dog with a loose hip. Overweight dogs are therefore at a much higher risk. Another factor that may increase the incidence is rapid growth in a puppy during the ages from three to ten months. Experimentally, the incidence has been increased in genetically susceptible dogs when they are given free choice high protein, high calorie diets. In a large study done in 1997, Labrador Retriever puppies fed a high protein, high calorie diet free choice for three years had a much higher incidence of hip dysplasia than their litter mates who were fed the same high calorie, high protein diet, but in an amount that was 25% less than that fed to the dysplastic group. As might be expected, however, the free choice group was significantly heavier at maturity and averaged 22 pounds heavier than the control group. Because obesity is also a risk factor, this study may be difficult to interpret.

I have yet to see a study that links an increased incidence of hip dysplasia in dogs fed a normal diet of commercial puppy food versus a specialty diet formulated for just large breed dogs. There have also been studies looking into protein and calcium levels and their relationship to hip dysplasia. Both of these studies were able to increase the level of hip dysplasia by feeding increased amounts of calcium and protein. But once again, the studies of puppies fed greatly increased amounts over normal recommended values and compared them to animals fed decreased amounts. They failed to compare puppies fed a normal amount of food that had the recommended amount of protein, fat, and calcium to those fed a diet with slightly less protein, fat, and calcium (similar to those 'large breed puppy foods' that are now flooding the market). I have yet to see a study that links an increased incidence in hip dysplasia in dogs fed a normal diet of commercial puppy food versus a specialty diet formulated just for large breed puppies.

Exercise: Exercise may be another risk factor. It appears that dogs that are genetically susceptible to the disease may have an increased incidence of disease if they over-exercise at a young age. But at the same time, we know that dogs with large and prominent leg muscle mass are less likely to contract the disease than dogs with small muscle mass. So exercising and maintaining good muscle mass may actually decrease the incidence of the disease. Moderate exercise that strengthens the gluteal muscles, such as running and swimming, is probably a good idea. Whereas, activities that apply a lot of force to the joint are contraindicated. An example would be a jumping activity such as playing Frisbee.

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Dog Bone & Joint Health

Jumping, running, fetching, digging... all specialties of dogs and puppies because of their nervous and musculoskeletal systems. Learn more about their anatomy, function, and diseases of bones, joints, muscles, ligaments, tendons, and nervous system.

When abnormal stress is placed upon the skeletal system, fractures or breaks of the bones may occur. All the possible fracture types and the proper corrections of fractures are described by difficult terminology. Basically, we refer to fractures not only based on the name of the bone broken but also on the characteristics of the break itself.
Types of fractures

There are four commonly seen fractures in the dog: closed, compound, epiphyseal (growth plate), and greenstick (hairline). These first three types can be further characterized by whether they are simple fractures in which the bone breaks into only 2 or 3 pieces, or comminuted where the bone shatters into many pieces.

Closed Fractures: Closed fractures are those in which the skin is not broken. The bone is fractured, but the overlying skin is intact.

Compound Fractures: Compound fractures are breaks in which the broken bone protrudes through the skin, and is exposed to the outside. Compound fractures are risky in that the bones can be contaminated with dirt and debris, resulting in an infection.

Epiphyseal Fractures: Epiphyseal fractures are commonly seen in young, growing dogs. In animals less than one year of age, there are soft areas near the ends of each long bone where growth takes place. These soft areas are referred to as growth plates or epiphyseal plates. Because these are areas of growth, they are rich in immature non-calcified cells that form a soft, spongy area of the bone. These growth plates are more easily fractured because they are the weakest part of the bone. The distal ends of the femur (thigh bone) and humerus (upper front leg) seem to be particularly susceptible to this fracture.

Greenstick Fractures: Greenstick fractures are small cracks within the bone which leave the bone basically intact, but cracked. In other words, the bone is not completely broken.
What are the symptoms and risks of fractures?

The symptoms and risks depend on what area and to what extent the bone is fractured. Fractures involving a joint are the most serious. A broken back may displace the spinal cord and cause complete paralysis. All fractures, however, are serious and should be treated at once. When a bone within a leg is broken, the dog will usually hold the entire leg off the ground. No weight is placed on the paw. With a sprain or lesser injury, it may use the leg somewhat, but walk with a limp.
What is the management?

Just as in human medicine, splints, casts, pins, steel plates, and screws can be used to realign the bone and allow healing. The treatment depends on the type of fracture, age of the dog, and which bone is broken. Compound fractures in which the risk of infection is high are treated differently than closed fractures. Growing puppies may heal in as little as five weeks, and because of their size they put less weight on the bone. Therefore, a fracture in a young puppy may be treated with a cast but the same fracture may need to be 'pinned' in a geriatric (senior) dog in which healing may take twelve weeks or more. Hairline fractures may only require rest, while surgical intervention will usually be needed in more severe fractures. Careful evaluation by a veterinarian will determine the proper treatment.

A dog's spine is made up of numerous small bones called vertebrae. These extend from the base of the skull all the way to the end of the tail. The vertebrae are interconnected by flexible discs of cartilage - the intervertebral discs. These discs provide cushioning between each bone and permit the neck, spine, and tail to bend, allowing changes in position and posture. Above the discs and running through the bony vertebrae is the spinal cord, which is made up of a mass of nerve fibers that run back and forth between the brain and the rest of the body.
What is diskospondylitis?

Diskospondylitis (also spelled 'discospondylitis') is a bacterial or fungal infection of the vertebrae and the intervertebral discs in dogs. The resulting swelling, inflammation and bone deformities seen in diskospondylitis put pressure or compression on the spinal cord which runs through the vertebrae. The disease is termed "spondylitis" when only the vertebrae are involved. The disease should not be confused with 'spondylosis,' which is a non-infectious fusion or degeneration of the vertebrae.
What causes diskospondylitis?

Diskospondylitis seems to occur most commonly in areas of the country that have a problem with plant awns (e.g., grass seeds, fox tails). It is thought that bacteria or fungi on the awns enter the blood system when the awns pierce the skin. Bacterial endocarditis, urinary tract infections, or dental disease/extractions may be another means by which bacteria enter the bloodstream and infect the vertebrae. Brucella canis has also been found to cause the disease in dogs.
What are the symptoms of diskospondylitis?

Common symptoms of this disease include weight loss, lack of appetite, depression, fever, and back pain. Dogs with this disease are generally reluctant to run or jump.
How is diskospondylitis diagnosed?

Diagnosis of diskospondylitis can be difficult. Blood tests, urinalysis, radiographs (x-rays), and spinal taps may be necessary to diagnose the disease. Cultures of blood and urine are often performed to help isolate the cause and choose the appropriate treatment. Myelography may be indicated to determine the exact location of spinal compression. Surgery may be needed to reduce the compression on the spinal cord.
How is diskospondylitis treated?

Treatment is based on finding the causative agent - fungal or bacterial. Because bone infections are difficult to treat, therapy lasts at least six weeks and may continue for six months or more. Taking radiographs at regular intervals during treatment helps monitor the progress. The lesions seen early in the disease should resolve with treatment.

Clinical improvement (lessening of symptoms) usually occurs within two weeks of starting treatment. Pain medication may be needed early in treatment. Exercise restriction may help decrease the pain also.

The prognosis depends on the ability to eliminate the infection and on how much nerve damage resulted from the spinal compression.

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Alternative Medicine Techniques

Treatments other than conventional western medicine are usually considered "alternative therapies." They usually are not backed by scientific data but by years of use. Some alternative therapies date back thousands of years. As more people use alternative therapies for themselves, they are also seeking them for their pets. The alternative therapy treatments include, but are not limited to, massage, acupuncture, herbology, homeopathy, and chiropractic. The American Veterinary Medical Association has established guidelines for veterinary acupuncture, chiropractic, homeopathic, and holistic medicine.

If you seek an alternative treatment, discuss it with your veterinarian first to make sure no harm will result from the trial. Discontinue use if results are negative. Get referrals from your veterinarian, family, or friends who have used the type of treatment you are seeking for your pet. States vary in their requirements regarding who can treat animals. A person may need to be a licensed veterinarian in that state to legally treat the animal. Check with your state government or state veterinary medical association to determine what is legal in your state.
Traditional Chinese medicine has used acupuncture to treat a wide variety of conditions for about 3,500 years. Acupuncture is said to stimulate the body's natural healing processes which in turn help the body heal itself. Traditional Chinese medicine practitioners believe that acupuncture stimulates the flow of energy forces that nourish tissues, stimulate blood flow, and enhance the body's systems. Acupuncture has been used both as a preventative measure and to help treat diseases.
According to ancient Chinese medical theory, the life force (called qi or ch'i) flows through the body via 14 invisible channels known as meridians. They regulate all physical and mental processes. Opposing forces within the body, called yin and yang, must be balanced to keep ch'i flowing properly. The meridians run deep within the body's tissues and organs, surfacing at some 360 places identified as acupuncture points, sometimes called acupoints. Certain meridians are identified with organs such as the bladder or liver, and the points all along such meridians are believed capable of affecting the associated internal organ. Stimulating these points is said to balance and restore the flow of ch'i.
The word acupuncture is derived from the Latin 'acus' needle and 'pungo' puncture. The puncture refers to the insertion of tiny needles at very specific points on the surface of the body. The needles used are smooth and solid and very thin. Some people say they feel a brief slight sensation upon the insertion of the needle into the precise acupuncture point. The depth of insertion, type of stimulation, and duration of treatment vary according to the disease or the condition being treated. Needles should be sterile and only used once.
In modern veterinary acupuncture, multiple systems of treatment are used. These include the classical needle alone, needles used in conjunction with electrical stimulation, or stimulation using a specific type of laser. Gold beads, surgical staples, or magnets are sometimes put into acupuncture points to provide permanent stimulation.
Many western theories exist to try to explain the reported effects of acupuncture, however no one theory explains all the effects. One thing specifically is known: acupuncture does cause the release of endorphins, compounds that have physiological effects resembling morphine.
In humans, acupuncture is most commonly used for the treatment of pain, paresis, and paralysis. Acupuncture helps provide short-term relief of pain. In some human studies, long-term relief has occurred as well. Patients may show a better response after each treatment or a good response which lasts for a short period of time and increasingly longer on each subsequent treatment. Acupuncture should not be expected to cure an underlying problem. Human research is underway to determine for which physical problems acupuncture works well.
Research studies on the effects of acupuncture on animals have not yet been performed, but anecdotal information suggests it may be helpful in certain conditions. Acupuncture has been used in the treatment of pain, hip dysplasia, chronic digestive disturbances, lick granuloma, epilepsy, and other miscellaneous conditions in pets. Some pet owners have noted an improvement in attitude in their pets before any physical improvement is seen. This may be due to a reduction in pain or some unknown factor.

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Can Dogs See in the Dark?

While cats may reign as the pet world's champions of night vision, dog lovers can rejoice: Their beloved canines can also navigate in dim light, if not quite as skillfully as their feline companions. How can dogs get by when the lights go out, and on a 20/20 scale, can canines go eye-to-eye with humans?
Dogs' ability to see in darkness stems from the structure of their eyes. They have large pupils, which let in more light. Their retinas have a lot of light-and-motion-sensitive cells, called rods. These distinguish light from shadow. And most importantly, dogs' eyes, like those of cats, some birds and fish, and nocturnal predator animals, have a mirror-like membrane called a tapetum lucidum at the rear of the eye. The tapetum allows light that is not absorbed by the rods to rebound to the retina, letting it take in more light, which enables the dog to see better.
But do dogs see better than humans? The simple answer is that they see differently, and in some instances, better. Dogs see shades of gray, while a human's world is in living color. The human retina has more cone cells, which distinguish color, while dogs' retinas have more rods, which need much less illumination to detect the gray spectrum. In twilight or indoor semi-darkness, a dog can see more clearly than his human. The rods are also sensitive to motion, allowing dogs to detect smaller movements and to quickly sense a stranger, or their prey. This is helpful when hunting at night or on guard duty.

A professor of comparative ophthalmology at the University of Wisconsin-Madison estimates that a dog can see in light that is five times dimmer than what the human eye needs (cats need about one sixth of the light humans need to see in darkness.).

Because a dog's eyes are set in the front of his face, not on the sides of his head like a horse, he has good binocular vision, which lets him use both eyes simultaneously to see an object. But depending on the distance of that object, a dog may see a blurry outline rather than a bicycle or a barn, because a dog's ability to focus on detail is not as sharp as a human's. Canine vision is roughly estimated to be 20/75, which means that at 20 feet away, the dog will see something as clearly as a human would 75 feet away. Dogs devoted to "Lassie" reruns on TV most likely view the collie's filmed adventures as frame after frame of movement rather than as a series of scenes, because dogs see flickering light better than humans do.

A dog's eye view is also at a considerably lower vista than a human's. Whether seen from a Chihuahua's pint-size height or a Great Dane's perspective, the world looks different, and much closer to the ground, for canines.

Like cats, dogs have those eerie glow-in-the-dark eyes that seem to float like independent flashlight beams, bringing smiles to even reluctant nighttime dog-walkers. The phenomenon is known as eyeshine. It happens when unabsorbed light reflects off the eye's tapetum lucidum, that layer of mirror-like membrane, just the way light bounces back from a mirror. Next time you're walking Fido on a frosty evening, instead of grumbling, "Just go, already!" take a moment to marvel at the greeny-gold orbs shining back at you from the end of the leash.

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Can Dogs See Color?

When you walk down the street with your dog, the almost endless array of hues you see -- from the brilliant blue sky and lush green grass to an ordinary red stop sign -- appears much differently to your pet.

Dogs have just one-tenth the concentration of color-capturing cones in the back of their eyes that humans have. So while we enjoy a smorgasbord of tinges and tones, dogs only see two colors: blue-violet and yellow, as well as any blends of these colors. The rest of their world appears in shades of gray like a dreary winter's day.

"Restrictions in color vision are probably of limited consequence in dogs, as it is likely that dogs react only to colors of biological importance to them," veterinarians Christopher Murphy and Paul Miller wrote in their 1995 study about canine vision, published in the journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association. Basically, since dogs don't forage for brightly-colored fruits like apples and oranges, there isn't a lot of value in seeing those colors, explains Miller, compared to being able to break the camouflage of prey or seeing potential threats.

Knowledge that a dog's world appears in more than just black or white came in 1989, when researchers at the University of California in Santa Barbara examined the color vision of three dogs -- two Italian greyhounds and a toy poodle -- in a series of behavioral discrimination experiments. Their findings indicated that there are color-sensitive cones in the dog's retina, located in the back of the eyeball. Later, these findings were confirmed through an electroretinography, a test similar to an electrocardiogram except that it measures the eye's response to light.

Dogs, like most mammals, are dichromats -- possesing two types of cones in their retina for color perception and ability to see details. Humans, on the other-hand, are trichromatic. Their eyes contain three types of light-sensitive cones -- blue-, green- and red-sensitive -- which allows enjoyment of all colors in the visible spectrum.

Interestingly, dogs see colors the way people with red-green color blindness see colors, explains Gregory Acland, a professor of medical genetics at Cornell University's College of Veterinary Medicine in Ithaca, N.Y. This rare disorder usually occurs in males and accounts for about 4 percent of the population.

"Such people will tell you that they do in fact see colors but they can have difficulties distinguishing some shades that other people tell apart easily," he explains. "Typically the colors they have trouble distinguishing are pastels or muddy shades in the red-orange-green range."

"Evolutionarily, this is because all mammals descend from crepuscular shrewlike creatures with eyes not adapted for daylight vision or color contrast," explains Acland. "The retinas of birds, reptiles and fishes have much more elaborate receptors for detecting color contrasts."

Through gene therapy, it's feasible to give a dog trichromatic vision, just like ours, but nobody has done that yet, Acland said.

Of course, a dog's strong suit is his sense of smell. This is a good thing, according to researchers Miller and Murphy, since compared to people -- who rely heavily on sight -- the canine's visual system is inferior in a number of ways, including depth perception, range of color and visual acuity. However, dogs trump humans in other aspects, such as motion sensitivity, the ability to see in low lighting and differentiating between shades of gray.

This has made the dog a more efficient predator in certain environmental situations (for example, in the dark) and permits him or her to "exploit an ecological niche inaccessible to humans," researchers Miller and Murphy conclude.

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Children With Pet Allergies

The combination of kids and pets can be a truly delightful experience, as well as an educational one in terms of teaching children responsibility and other core values such as nurturing and empathy. But for those with little ones who are allergy-prone, it may be a recipe for disaster.

According to the Asthma and Allergy Foundation of America (AAFA), at least 15 percent of Americans who have allergies are allergic to pets, and adults who fall into this group are also more likely to have children with similar conditions. AAFA figures show that as many as 7 out of 10 children will develop pet allergies if both parents are affected. However, it's also entirely possible for children to develop allergies when both parents are allergy-free.

It's unclear whether there's any surefire way to prevent your kids from getting pet allergies. Some studies, including one conducted in 2002 by the Journal of the American Medical Association, indicate that exposing children to pets during their first year of life might in fact help prevent the development of allergies down the road, but experts in the field have yet to agree on whether these studies are valid in all cases.

Signs of a potential pet allergy in children are similar to those seen in adults, which can include runny nose, sneezing, red or watery eyes, itching, and in more severe cases, rashes, hives, and even the development of full-blown asthma. There are, however, other allergens — such as mold — that can create similar symptoms. So how can you tell if pets are the cause? First things first: Consider whether your children have ever been exposed to animals, and if so, have they exhibited any subsequent reactions? Symptoms of a pet allergy usually show up within 30 minutes or so after contact, but sometimes can take as long as 8 to 12 hours to surface. To be safe, give it a full day after the initial interaction takes place before jumping to any conclusions.

For a more concrete verdict, a doctor or allergist can help determine the source of the irritant by conducting a detailed review of your child's medical history and a complete physical examination. A skin or blood test is also good for measuring a child's level of immunoglobulin E (IgE) antibodies as it relates to specific allergens. Generally, skin tests are preferable, because they deliver faster and more specific results than blood tests.

If a pet allergen does indeed prove to be the culprit behind your child's symptoms, the best (and sometimes hardest) decision would be to prevent contact with anything that acts as a trigger for the allergies. This includes keeping certain pets out of your own household and also limiting interactions with other people's animals as much as possible — both of which can be heartbreaking situations for youngsters. When explaining the circumstances, try reminding your kids how important it is for them to remain healthy. Don't hesitate to ask your pediatrician for advice on how to best approach this discussion as well.

If your children are allergy-prone, but their symptoms are relatively mild, you may decide to move forward with getting a pet anyway. If this is the case, keep in mind that the source of the allergen is in the animal's saliva or skin secretions — not within hair or fur as a lot of people believe. While many dog and cat breeds are marketed as hypoallergenic, there is really no such thing as a 100 percent allergy-friendly pet, so choosing one labeled as such will not necessarily do you or your family any favors.

That said, there are more allergy-friendly alternatives. Though cats and dogs are popular pet options, consider other types of animals that don't shed dander, such as fish, reptiles and turtles. If you do opt for a kitty or puppy, look into breeds that shed less frequently (like Bichon Frises) or have shorter fur (like the Devon Rex cat). That should help cut down on the amount of dander in the household.

Other helpful measures include making your children's bedrooms pet-free zones and keeping your pet outdoors whenever possible. Vacuum and dust frequently, and speak to your doctor about other treatment options as well, such as antihistamines (in the form of pills or nose sprays) or even shots. Taking medication might seem extreme, but it's important to explore all options to avoid unpleasant situations down the road for your kids, yourself and your pet.

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Weird Pet Eating Habits

Our pets have some strange ideas about what counts as food.
While it's understandable that kibble and canned food every day might motivate a search for a few supplementary delicacies from time to time, their choices never seem well thought out.
5: Dirt

It's normal to see a dog snuffling and digging in the dirt, but what about when your pooch starts eating it? Last time we checked, dirt wasn't digestible. It does contain a few minerals dogs can use, such as potassium, magnesium, zinc and iron. Sick dogs are often seen eating dirt, and they may be chowing down to correct a nutritional imbalance.

But while a few chomps of soil are probably harmless, making a meal of mud pie on a steady basis can be a dangerous thing. All dirt has the potential to contain traces of fecal matter from other animals, and eating it regularly is a dependable way for your pet to pick up some nasty parasites.

4: Feces

Along with butt-sniffing and toilet bowl-drinking, eating feces, a behavior known as coprophagy, is actually pretty common among dogs. Though it's no fun to watch, it's not necessarily a sign that something's wrong. Many pets will eat poop out of boredom, curiosity or just for fun. If it's their own poop, it's most likely harmless. There may also be an instinctual aspect -- mother animals in the wild often eat their young's feces to avoid attracting predators.

Some animals, like rabbits, need to eat their poop. While rabbits generally donate eat actual feces, they do eat cecotropes, a type of excretory pellet. Digestive tracts in lagomorphs (the biological order that includes rabbits and pikas) produce these cecotropes from a special pouch that nurtures beneficial bacteria and stores nutrients. Just think of it as probiotic rabbit yogurt.

3: Grass

Cats know a lot of weird ways to have fun. Running into the yard to eat grass and then throw it up just happens to be one of them. Fortunately, it isn't as big a deal for them as it is for us (probably because they never have to clean it up). There's also substantial evidence that this habit is good for them. Because cats and other carnivores end up eating a lot of indigestible fur, bones and feathers, using fibrous plants like grass to induce vomiting is an effective way to clean out the stomach and keep the intestines safe from blockage and laceration.

Cats who don't have access to grass will often go after potentially poisonous plants as a substitute. Some common ones include aloe vera, poinsettia and even the rubber plants that people with black thumbs keep around the house. Always make sure houseplants are cat-safe.

2: Pica

Pica, which can be defined as eating non-food objects, is one of the most immediately dangerous weird eating habits in animals. While animals can engage in pica for a variety of reasons, such as anxiety, neurosis or malnutrition, it can also be part of play behavior; for dogs and cats, eating playthings often just feels natural. Puppies especially will eat anything that smells interesting -- garbage, underwear and dirty socks. Likewise, kittens will eat rubber bands or tinsel the same way they might eat a mouse or a bug.

Still, even in play, pica can be deadly, resulting in poisonings, bowel obstructions and other intestinal damage. Owners should make sure their pets have plenty of safe toys to play with, but if pica continues, consult a veterinarian.

1: Food Strikes

Some pets are just picky eaters, but anorexia -- yes, the term applies to pets, too -- can also indicate major health problems. Princess Sparklemittens may consider herself too good for generic canned cat food, but your pet's refusal to eat also might be because of gastrointestinal issues, neurological diseases or an oral infection that makes eating too painful. When weightloss becomes noticeable, it's time to call a vet. Pet owners can also keep an eye out for other telling symptoms, like joint pain, wheezing and fever. These may accompany a more serious problem.

On the other hand, the problem might be with the food, not your pet. Dogs and cats hate eating rancid food almost as much as we do, and eating or drinking out of the same old filthy bowl gets unappetizing. Their bowls need to be washed just as often as human dishes.

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Understanding Pet Food Labels

You may think you're feeding Fido top-of-the-line dog food, but without an understanding of pet food labels, you may be putting your pooch at risk. It takes more than just reading the catchy brand name and nutritional claims that pop out at you to really comprehend what your pets are eating.

In the United States, the federal government requires pet food manufacturers to list specific information on the outside of each package, such as the ingredients, where the food is made and the amount of food in that container. The U.S. Food and Drug Administration's (FDA) Center for Veterinary Medicine regulates the standards that the American Association of Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) sets. Some states also have an additional set of standards for pet food. Typically, states' regulations align with AAFCO's guidelines and require labels to include a product's name, the guaranteed analysis of ingredients, a nutritional adequacy statement, feeding directions and calorie statements. Pet food makers must guarantee that what's in the box, bag or can contains the fiber, fat, moisture and crude protein stated on the packaging [source: Consumer Reports].

Canada appears to have stricter rules. The Pet Food Association of Canada bans specified risk materials (SRMs) from being fed to any animal. What's more, Canadian law requires labels to list the pet food's nutritional adequacy and life stage for which the food is suitable.

What's in a name?

You need to know a few things about a pet food's name. Keep in mind several U.S. government regulations. When it comes to the product's name, manufacturers have to focus on the facts. If a label on a product lists an ingredient in its name, at least 95 percent of the food must be made with that ingredient. For example, Big Bob's Beefy Dog Chow must contain at least 95 percent beef. If a label lists two ingredients in its name, the one listed first must comprise a higher concentration than the second. So, Big Bob's Beef-Ham Dog Chow has to contain more beef than ham.

Beyond the label, the package will probably use showy words and pictures to convince you that it's the best choice for your furry, feathery or scaly friend. If less than 25 percent of the canned or dry product is made with a named ingredient, then the company must disclose that by using a term to signify that it's not a whole food. If the label on Big Bob's Beef-Grain Dog Chow has wording saying it provides omega-3 fatty acids, it can't say "high in omega-3s" unless that nutrient makes up at least 25 percent of the food composition. Rather, the manufacturer will have to use a phrase like "contains omega-3s." The list of ingredients, which is usually located on the back of the bag, cites ingredients in order of predominance by weight [source: FDA].

Misleading Labels

Certain label claims, like the terms premium, gourmet and complete, are subjective and unsubstantiated. One especially problematic claim is the word "natural" -- this isn't the same as organic. According to the American Medical Veterinary Association (AMVA), packaging labels might not always be a reliable source of information. Although a pet food label may say it contains beef, it's highly unlikely that you're getting the same stuff you put on your own plate. That meat is sold for human consumption, and what's left -- bones, gristle, snouts and hooves -- are sold to pet food manufacturers and processed into those meaty-looking nuggets you feed to Rusty.

Clearly, there's more than meets the eye when it comes to pet food labels. To be a savvy shopper, familiarize yourself with the U.S. FDA standards. Another option that may suit you is making your own pet food.

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Top 5 Pet Meditative Activitie

Most pets (dogs in particular) possess an impressive ability to run around at top speed, dig holes and greet houseguests with unparalleled enthusiasm. At the end of a long day, many pets like to kick back as much as we do. Although a glass of wine and a bubble bath is out of the question for an animal, there are many relaxing activities that we can share with our pets.

Common sense alone tells us that owning a pet can make a person happy. After all, companionship in the form of a cuddly, non-judgmental friend with a pleasantly wet nose is rare and appreciated. For proof-seekers, there's no lack of scientific evidence. Studies have repeatedly shown that owning a pet increases the levels of "happy hormones" like oxytocin, which promotes relaxation and an overall Zen feeling. In addition, pet ownership is believed to lower blood pressure and decrease levels of cortisol, a damaging hormone that's linked to anxiety and depression. Read on for a list of five meditative activities that can strengthen the pet-owner bond and relax both you and your furry friend.

5: Pet Massage

All that napping, playing and day-to-day stress can quickly produce anxiety, sore muscles or an aching back in an active pet. Massage is one low-cost, low-key way to relax, encourage trust and strengthen the emotional bond between pets and owners. For animals with extreme health problems or injuries, pet massage is best left to the professionals. But owners interested in performing pet massage themselves have a multitude of sources to choose from. Veterinarians can provide a basic tutorial on pressure points, strokes and other technical guidance. Books, videos and Web sites are also available for at-home practitioners to learn the fundamentals. Experts recommend that novice massagers tread lightly in the beginning, keeping an eye out for any warning sign that the pet isn't enjoying the experience, such as growling, flinching or tensing. The gentle pressure of massage, coupled with a calm atmosphere, can put the wag back in the tail of a previously sore or anxious animal.

4: Doga (Dog Yoga)

Pooches who have tired of traditional exercise can now turn to doggie yoga, the canine craze that's sweeping exercise venues around the world. This popular form of exercise that encourages mental and physical stimulation, flexibility and strength in humans has recently branched out to include canine companions in many locations. Although dogs may not expect to achieve all the same physical benefits as humans, they can achieve a stronger emotional connection with their owners. Dogs will also benefit from an increased range of motion, thanks to the gentle massage incorporated in most classes. Owners of Labrador retrievers and other large dogs might want to stick to walks and games of fetch, since many poses require owners to fully support the weight of their animal.

3: Walk the Dog

Many dog owners, exhausted from day-to-day life, often skip walks in favor of letting a pet run around in the backyard. Many fail to realize that a short walk around the block (waste bags in hand, of course) can be soothing for canine and human alike. For owners, the walk is a time to decompress from the stressors of work, traffic and the like. The next time you head out for a stroll, take a cue from Fido. Rather than chatting on your cell phone or rushing the experience, choose instead to indulge your senses by breathing in the fresh air and observing nature. Owners of tiny dogs or puppies should reign in their enthusiasm, as some breeds' little legs can't handle long distances. This daily quality time easily allows owners and dogs the opportunity to reconnect with each other.

2: Grooming

Although some animals genuinely detest grooming and don't find it relaxing in the least, the majority craves this one-on-one contact with their human, which feels kind of like a good petting session. Brushing or grooming a dog, cat or other furry friend is probably the best way to lower cortisol levels and reduce stress in pets and owners alike. Because coats vary in texture and length by breed, it's wise to research specific grooming needs and techniques before beginning. For example, some animals only require a good brushing once a week, whereas others are more high-maintenance. Animals with an aversion to grooming may require a little more paw-holding. To ease them into the experience, experts recommend that owners speak quietly and calmly while brushing their pet. With a little bit of practice and adjustment, most animals will run to their owner rather than for the door when the brush comes out.

1: Vacationing

Sometimes all the leisurely walks in the world won't take the place of a true vacation. Rather than kennel your best friend or leave it with a caretaker, consider taking your pet along on the adventure. This fairly new option has been facilitated by the wide acceptance of animals as true members of the family, rather than second-class citizens. From cottages and mid-grade hotels to the Ritz-Carlton Hotel in New York, many options are available for pets and owners to enjoy a well-deserved getaway. Some accommodations offer basic animal amenities, while others roll out the red carpet by providing toys, treats and even pet birthday cakes for an extra fee. Your pet will probably appreciate the change of scenery as much as you.

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The Benefits for Dogs and Their Owners

Our dogs' bodies weren't designed to just lounge around the house to watch hours of a CSI marathon on TV all day Sunday with us. Dogs are natural hunters, herders, chasers and all around go-getters. They need to be active almost as much as they need to breathe.

So when we don't give our pups what their body craves, physical activity, then we are hindering their instinct to be active. In turn, when we don't encourage our dogs to be active, we're also missing out on an opportunity to get and keep our own selves in shape.

There are countless benefits for a pet owner to own an active dog. The most obvious includes better health for the owner and the pup. First and foremost, regular exercise helps dogs and their owners lose or maintain weight. When you run and play with your dog on a daily basis, the cardio benefits to both man and man's best friend are too numerous to count. Strong digestive systems, healthy bones and muscles and better agility are also benefits to both of you.

Remember, in order for an active dog to benefit the owner, you have to choose activities that both of you can participate in. There is no benefit to the owner who puts her dog out in the backyard and expects him to run and play on his own. No one will be getting exercise with this scenario.Other than the obvious health benefits, here are a few more reasons to put the remote down and grab a ball or Frisbee and put your dog on his leash.

Active dogs are less likely to exhibit bad behavior problems because they are regularly burning the energy that's usually the source of that type of behavior. That means less digging, chewing expensive shoes, scratching couches, jumping on your in-laws when they hit the door, roughhousing and running on all cylinders while everyone else is preparing to go to bed. The more you engage in physical activity with your dog, the less interest he has in participating in or initiating destructive behaviors.

Another benefit to having an active dog is the fact that you'll both sleep better at night. When it's time to wind down in the evening, your dog will be tired too and will relish the chance to get some shuteye after a day of using up valuable energy. And we all know how important it is for humans to get enough sleep at night to function at our best during the day.

Exercise is also good for the mental well-being of both dogs and their owners. Studies show that regular activity is a key factor in reducing stress in pet parents. But it also helps shy dogs gain confidence and shake their feelings of fear.

Here's the fun part. Active dogs make it easier to have a thriving social life. When owners and their dogs play in parks and participate in doggie play dates, they have a chance to form bonds with other two-legged and four-legged friends – even some of the opposite sex for single pet parents.

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5 Puppy Dental Care Tips

There's so much to think about with a new puppy: feeding, training and building a bond. If your little one just has a mouthful of tiny teeth, you may not have even considered dental care (or perhaps just fleetingly when you glimpsed the newly gnawed-on sofa legs).

But just as it is for us humans, developing good oral hygiene early is a major step in safeguarding your pup from dental disease down the road. Here are five things the two of you should do in his first year.

5: Make Mouth Handling a Routine

One of the first things you should do with your puppy is teach him that it's OK for people to handle his mouth and muzzle. This will help him tolerate future dental prevention and care.

You don't have to set aside a special time to do this. When he's snuggling in your lap, move his gums aside and peek at his pearly whites or rub a finger over his front teeth and gums. Rest your hands on his muzzle, one on top and the other below his jaw, and gently open his mouth. Talk cheerfully and offer lots of praise as you do these things. If he seems uneasy, share a special treat or pour on the affection.

If he's very uncomfortable with this handling, make it more appealing. Coat your finger with something special, like peanut butter or meat baby food, or dip it in chicken broth. He'll be happy to have your tasty finger move nearer to his mouth! Let him lick off the treat while you try to rub the outside of his lips, gums and teeth. Be careful to keep your finger just within licking range, not inside of his mouth. You don't want him to mistake it for a treat he can actually munch on!

Do these things daily until your puppy is confident with the handling.

Peeking inside that growing mouth is also important to check on his teething progress, which needs some assistance every now and then.

4: Monitor Dental Comings and Goings

That first year is a busy time in your puppy's mouth. If everything goes as expected, he has his first set of puppy teeth -- called deciduous teeth -- between 8 and 12 weeks old. These junior chompers soon fall out, making way for his adult ones. It varies by dog and by breed, but most canines sport 42 adult teeth by the time they're 7 to 8 months old.

Keep watch on all this oral activity, though, because sometimes things don't go as planned. For example, the first teeth may fail to erupt. If you're getting ready to celebrate his 12-week birthday and he's still mainly gums, check with the vet, who'll run some X-rays to find those missing choppers. The doc may need to work with the tissue over the problem areas to help convince things to move along. This condition tends to occur more often in small or toy breeds.

Other times, the deciduous teeth don't fall out in time. If two teeth are right on top of each other, consult your vet. Left alone, this could leave your pup with a crooked adult tooth, potentially causing bite problems or gum irritation.

With all this coming and going, your puppy's gums will be sore, causing him to nibble on everything. Read on for ways to keep his mouth -- and your household -- safe from inappropriate chewing.

3: Teach Him What to Chew On

Puppies wouldn't be puppies if they weren't trying to get their mouths on everything! This normal pastime provides some relief from teething pain and pressure, and satisfies his curiosity about all the new things in his world.

Your puppy doesn't care what he gets his mouth on, so it's up to you to direct him. Household objects are an obvious no-no; in addition to property damage, he could break a tooth by chomping down on something too hard. Even though the first set is just temporary, a broken deciduous tooth introduces problems and warrants a trip to the vet.

Keep his chewing safe by offering a variety of chew toys, including some that are specifically made for teething. A chew toy should be hard but not rock solid; it should have some flexibility and give to the surface. If you can't dent a toy with your fingernail, it's probably too hard for your puppy.

Puppies frequently insist on chomping on something they shouldn't. Perhaps the cool, metal rails of your desk chair are just right for his sore gums. If he seems to be seeking relief for mouth pain, try freezing a rolled-up wet towel or rope toy and offering that. If you can't discourage him from your desk chair -- or other off-limits objects -- buy a bitter-tasting deterrent at your pet store. Applying it to the desired object will safeguard his mouth and your household.

While you don't want your puppy chewing the wrong things, you do want to encourage some healthy gnawing. Find out why next.

2: Feed Him a Dental-friendly Diet

With all the growing he's doing, your pup needs a high-quality diet to develop strong, healthy bones and teeth. Feed him the best quality puppy food you can comfortably afford, and consider your dog's dental health when you plan his daily diet.

Dry kibble is a good choice for oral health. Crunching on it helps to scrape food and bacteria off the surface of the teeth, minimizing the opportunities for plaque to develop. Wet, canned food is more likely to get trapped in crevices. But you don't have to feed only kibble if your little one prefers canned food. Alternate at each meal or add a spoonful of wet food to his bowl of kibble.

You'll probably be giving out lots of treats as you teach your new arrival all about being a good dog. Sneak in some teeth-cleansing benefits by choosing treats approved by the Veterinary Oral Health Council (VOHC). The group's seal of approval indicates that the item has been evaluated and meets the protocols established to be considered a dentally beneficial food.

As your puppy gets older and has more teeth to work with, he'll enjoy gnawing on edible chew treats, such as bully sticks or knucklebones. Enjoying a nice, long chomp on these items can help scrape away food and buildup. But before you begin giving him these longer-lasting, edible chews, ask your vet if your puppy is ready and what type he or she recommends.

Whether your pooch has his full set of adult choppers or he's still working on it, it's never too early to get serious about daily dental care.

1: Build in That Nightly Brushing

It's hard to imagine that your puppy's shiny, new teeth may soon be dotted with brown tartar. But without regular brushing, tartar affects most adult dogs, leading to gingivitis and periodontal disease.

Get a head start in fending off these preventable problems. Once he's comfortable with mouth and muzzle handling, start making regular toothbrushing a habit. Veterinarians recommend doing it daily if possible or at least several times a week.

Start very simply by showing your pup the toothbrush and canine-specific toothpaste for him to lick and sniff. Gently approach his mouth to brush one or two teeth and gums, using a circular motion. Don't worry about getting a lot done. Right now, you just want to build up his comfort with the experience.

Brush at the same time each day so he'll come to expect it. Choose a relaxed time, such as early evening. He may wind up thinking the toothpaste is part of his nighttime treat!

As dogs continue to lead longer and healthier lives, veterinarians point to preventive dental care as a key factor in their prolonged health. Use your puppy's first year to establish good habits to last a lifetime!

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10 Fun Ways to Exercise Your Dog

You've traveled this route many times. Your footsteps are on automatic pilot and your dog is tired of smelling the same patches of grass. You continue your daily walks sticking as closely to the same path like a beagle honing in on a scent because your dog needs exercise for his health and as an outlet for pent up energy. Walking is what you are supposed to do with a dog, right? Well, yes, but there's a movement afoot that challenges the traditional ideas of what dogs and humans can do together for fun and physical conditioning. So if you and your canine companion are getting a little bored with the same activities day after day, here are some suggestions to shake up your routine.

Follow the Dog

Try this twist for your daily walks. Instead of walking your dog, have your dog walk you. Wherever she goes, you go. Think of your dog as a four-legged, furry, walking GPS that isn't letting you know where the final destination will be. You'll be amazed where the nose will take the two of you.

Running

Running with your dog is like multitasking -- you and your four-legged athlete get to enjoy the great outdoors while increasing stamina and strengthen muscles. Dr. Lucy Spelman, renowned veterinarian, educator and author on domestic and wildlife animals, agrees that running with your dog is a great activity with one caveat: "Remember it's your dog's outing. You should be willing to stop when the dog wants to stop -- to sniff and greet other dogs and people -- even if that slows you down."

Flyball

Another high-energy activity is Flyball. In this competitive sport, dogs are part of teams and the rules of the game are similar to a human relay race. Dogs race down a course, which includes 4 hurdles. At the end of the first leg sits a box with tennis balls. The dog must stomp on this box to release a ball and then return to the starting line carrying the ball while jumping the hurdles. Once he or she crosses the starting line, the next dog takes off. The goal is to be the fastest team without penalties. Some penalties include dropping the ball or a dog taking off down the course before his or her teammate crosses the starting line.

Agility

If your dog has a lot of energy or pounds to burn off, find an agility group or class. This high-energy, running, jumping competitive sport is not only great exercise, but develops confidence and new skills.

Tracking

Not all dogs are tracking breeds, but just about any dog can participate in the sport of tracking, a competitive event for dogs and handlers. A scent trail is laid out hours before competition. Once the trail has "aged" dogs, with the encouragement of their owners, begin the work of finding an object at the end of the trail.

Fetch

A simple game of fetch can be all that is needed for your dog's daily exercise fix. Fetch is easy to squeeze into busy schedules, as there is no need to travel far to fit in a game. A close-by park or backyard works great and on rainy days, fetch can be an indoor sport, played from the comfort of your couch.

Group Exercise

The best forms of exercise for any animal are the activities they would naturally do. For dogs, playing with other dogs fits that definition. Dr. Spelman notes, "If you watch a group of dogs in this setting, they create their own games and expend their extra energy they way they choose."

Teach a New Skill

Don't forget to exercise your dog's brain. After puppyhood and the basic obedience commands have been taught, cognitive challenges tend to drop off. Find some silly, fun behavior to teach your dog, like high fiving or bowing on command or go for more advanced behaviors such as emergency down or command by hand signals.

Nose work

Similar to tracking, nose work takes advantage of a dog's innate scent capability. Training begins with simple tasks of finding a treats in a hidden box. As your dog gets better at locating objects the tasks get more challenging. Not only is nose work an excellent exercise as your dog bounds from place to place looking for the prize, but nose work also develops your dog's focus and confidence as well.

Free Style

If you're a fan of Dancing With the Stars, you may want to try dancing with your dog. Based on obedience training, but with more elaborate footwork, movements are choreographed to music as you and your dog go through an original "dance" routine. Free Style also offers opportunities to strut your stuff in competition.

Taking your daily walk and following the same path isn't such a bad idea as dogs like routine and continuity, but throwing in some new ways to work off pounds and energy and just enjoy each other will open up new opportunities to expand skills, become more confident and just have fun – for you and your dog.

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Which dog breeds make good running partners?

Since running has become your latest passion, you figure it might be fun to have the companionship of man's best friend to enjoy the daily trek.


Sure dogs need exercise just as much as their two-legged friends. In fact, staying active is in their DNA. But there are some dog breeds that are just not the right type to pound the pavement with you. Some dogs are too large or even too small, while others risk getting overheated. So before you purchase that cute pink doggie outfit for your Maltese, read on to learn which dog breeds make good running partners.


The type of dog you choose also depends on the type of runner you are. If your daily journey consists of a ten mile trek or more, then the following dogs will be able to keep up with you because of their medium build and the muscles in their hind parts: German shorthaired pointers, Goldendoodles, Jack Russell terriers, Weimaraners and Vizslas.


If you you're a faster runner who thrives on shorter distances, then the Beagles, English setters, Golden and Labrador retrievers, Greyhounds, and Pit bulls will be your best companions because they too are muscular but are also built for sprints.


If you live below the Mason-Dixon line and love to run in the simmering July heat (although running in heat higher than 80 degrees or more isn't recommended), then the Airedale terriers, Fox terriers, and Rhodesian ridgebacks will be able to withstand the heat. They can do this in part because of their long noses and short sleek coats. For those who enjoy running along Lake Michigan during the brutal Chicago Winters, bring along your German Shepherds, Malamutes, Siberian huskies, or Swiss Mountain Dogs.

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5 Cool Pieces of Dog Exercise Equipment

While running on your NordicTrack treadmill, you glance over in the corner at your dog sleeping and mutter to yourself that she's looking a little pudgy around the middle. You've come to the realization that maybe you aren't the only on in the house who can benefit from some exercise equipment.

We've found five cool pieces of dog exercise equipment that will get her back into her ideal weight in no time.

Large Exercise Ball

Exercise balls aren't just for yoga, Pilates classes and rehabilitation centers. They're also for our favorite pooch too. Exercise balls not only help strengthen the human core, they help strengthen your dog's core too. They also improve her balance, reaction and control. Some canines like to use exercise balls to play their own version of soccer.

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5 Tips for Throwing Discs to Dogs

While out at your favorite dog park with your new Labrador Retriever watching the owners play catch with their dogs and discs, you realize it's time to show Howie how to catch one. You refuse to be outdone by the showboating team of Jeff Johnson and his German Shepherd, who you must admit, make disc-throwing look like an Olympic sport.

Before you embark on this sport, read on for five tips to help you and Howie too become forces to be reckoned with:

Start Slow

Before you and Howie get started, you need to introduce the concept to him slowly. The goal is for him to chase a disc, catch it in his mouth, and bring it back to you without hurting himself. It's a good idea to practice just the two of you in the backyard to get him comfortable with this new sport. When you start throwing discs at your dog, he might not know right away what to do with it or why it's in the air for that matter. Begin by rolling the disc to him to get him used to the size and shape of it. Some trainers suggest even attaching food or treats to the disc so they can associate it with something fun and positive. When Howie finally gets it, make sure to praise him. And don't expect him to be an Olympic dog champion overnight.

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Dog-Grooming and Bathing Tips

Even if you're too young to remember product slogans like, "Look Sharp, Feel Sharp, Be Sharp," you probably know good personal hygiene keeps you happier and healthier. Heck, if you've ever gone on a weekend camping trip, you'll understand. As nice as it is to get away from it all, there's something even nicer about getting back to a hot shower and shampoo. Well, the same goes for your dog: Clean, well-groomed fur, trimmed nails, clear eyes, and clean teeth keep her feeling more comfortable and looking and -- let's face it -- smelling better. To keep your dog at her best, you'll need to know some basic grooming skills -- and when it's time to see a professional groomer.
Coat Care

Without regular brushing and combing, your dog's hair can develop mats. Matted hair pulls and inflames your dog's sensitive skin and can be even more painful to remove. Even dogs with short, flat coats need regular grooming to distribute skin oils and remove dead hair. With this in mind, every dog owner needs to have some basic grooming tools on hand.

A fine-toothed metal flea comb will last your dog's lifetime. Also use the flea comb to remove loose dead hair. If your dog's coat is heavily tangled, don't use a comb on it; you'll just end up hurting her.

Regular brushing keeps skin healthy by stimulating blood flow and distributing natural oils. If your dog has a short coat, a weekly brushing will usually do. But a breed with a thick, long, or shaggy coat, such as an Afghan or Old English Sheepdog, may require daily care. A wire slicker brush helps prevent mats from forming, and a curry brush or rubber grooming mitt removes loose hair quickly and easily. For best results, be sure you brush all the way down to the skin.

Use a natural bristle brush on shorthaired dogs. This type of brush can also be used on dogs such as Huskies and Collies who have "double coats" -- a soft undercoat and weather-resistant outercoat. A steel pin brush is best for dogs with long coats, such as Maltese, Shih Tzus, and Yorkshire Terriers. Some dogs -- Poodles, Bichons Frises, Kerry Blue Terriers -- have curly or wavy coats requiring the use of a fine curved-wire slicker brush. For dogs with straight, flat, silky, feathered coats -- like Setters or Spaniels -- the pin brush or wire slicker brush is a good choice. Ask the breeder if your dog's coat requires a special type of comb or brush, especially if you plan to show the dog.

Before you begin brushing, mist your dog's coat with a spray-on conditioner. This helps the brush move smoothly through the fur, and cuts down on static electricity and broken hair.

To remove mats, work some baby oil or liquid tangle remover into each one. After several minutes, try to loosen and separate the mats, using your fingers or the end tooth of a comb. Carefully brush out the loosened sections, going slowly so you don't hurt your dog. In severe cases, the entire coat may need to be clipped.

You may notice your dog's skin and hair are drier than usual in the wintertime, and her coat is crackling with static electricity every time you pet or brush her. Everyone in the house will feel better if you run a humidifier during heating season. After bathing, treat your pooch's skin with a conditioner made especially for dogs. A light coating of petroleum jelly can also help soothe dry or cracked footpads.
Pedicure

Don't overlook routine dog foot care. Because your dog spends so much time on her feet -- without the protection of shoes -- she's prone to punctures or wounds from glass and other sharp objects, as well as scrapes and abrasions from cement and gravel walkways. Examine your dog's feet on a regular basis to make sure she hasn't picked up any foxtails or goathead stickers. If grass seeds become embedded in the paw, remove them with tweezers. Clean small cuts, and apply antibiotic ointment or cream. Seek veterinary treatment for more severe cuts.

Small cuts or mild skin disease may cause infections in the sweat glands in your dog's feet, resulting in swelling or abscesses between the toes -- a problem especially common in Bull Terriers, Dobermans, and Pekingese. Soaking the afflicted foot in warm salt water often will relieve the pain. A more severe or persistent infection calls for veterinary care, antibiotics, and other follow-up treatment.

If your dog steps in something gooey, soften it up by rubbing the foot with margarine, peanut butter, or shortening; then work it off. Apply ice to chewing gum to make it brittle and easier to remove. You can also try soaking the foot in a mixture of warm salt water and olive or mineral oil.

For dogs who live in regions with ice and snow in the winter, road salt and sidewalk ice-melt products can irritate the footpads. Washing and drying Muffy's feet after being outside helps reduce this painful condition, and it prevents her from swallowing the salt when she licks her sore pads. Booties are another option, although some owners -- and some dogs -- find them undignified. Dogs who spend time out in the ice and snow can also form ice balls between their toes. These can be prevented by using a silicon spray on the dog's feet before she heads outdoors.

Trimming a dog's nails takes equal measures of practice and perseverance. Keeping your pup's nails properly clipped means less wear and tear on your carpet and floors and less chance of a painful snagged, broken, or ingrown nail. The sooner you start getting your dog used to having her nails clipped, the easier it will be in the long run (especially if you get your dog as a puppy). Use nail trimmers made especially for a dog's nails. For best results, wait until your pooch is relaxed or sleepy. Clip just where the nail curves, beyond the point of the sensitive, pink area referred to as the quick. It's easy to avoid the quick if your dog's nails are clear, but dogs with dark nails require more precision. If you clip too much of the nail and hit the quick, use a styptic stick or styptic powder to stop the bleeding. Also, dipping the bleeding nail into a small amount of cornstarch will help stop the bleeding. Or keep a bar of soap handy when you're trimming your dog's nails. If you nick the quick, just rub the nail along the bar of soap to stop the bleeding. A dampened tea bag is also good for this purpose. Trim your dog's nails about every two weeks, or as necessary. Nails need to be trimmed if they touch the floor when the dog is standing on a hard surface or if they make clicking sounds when she walks.
Dental care

Although dogs don't usually get cavities, they are prone to gum disease caused by tartar buildup. Tartar is a by-product of plaque, which is a soft, gummy residue left on teeth after eating. When plaque hardens, it forms tartar (or calculus), which in turn can cause the gums to get red, inflamed, and sore. This condition is called gingivitis. Gum disease is one of the most common problems veterinarians see in dogs. Besides causing bad breath, if periodontal disease gets bad enough, it can interfere with a dog's ability to chew and even effect internal organs, causing bacterialinfections in the kidneys and heart.

Good dental hygiene can't start too young. If you begin tooth care in puppyhood, you can greatly reduce the chance of your dog developing periodontal disease. To brush a dog's teeth, use a small, soft toothbrush or finger brush with toothpaste or tooth-cleaning solution formulated for pets. (Human toothpaste foams too much, and the additives can upset your dog's stomach.) You can also wrap gauze around your finger and gently scrub the teeth with doggie toothpaste. To make toothpaste for your dog at home, mix baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) with a little salt and water. Apply it with a toothbrush or with gauze wrapped around your finger. Don't use this recipe if your dog is on a sodium-restricted diet.

Ideally, you should brush your dog's teeth every day, but even a weekly brushing will help. Tartar buildup has to be removed by your veterinarian, with the dog under anesthesia, so the extra effort of regular brushing will save you and your dog much more effort and expense later on.
Ears

Your dog's ears are delicate, sensitive, finely tuned instruments allowing her to pick up sounds far out of the range of human hearing. Considering how picky people get about their stereo equipment, you'd think everyone would understand how very important it is to take good care of a dog's high-quality "sound system." Infections or foreign bodies can seriously damage these marvelous creations, but just taking a few minutes each week to examine and clean your dog's ears will help keep them safe and sound.

The outer ear (also called the earflap or pinna) is most vulnerable to injury and infection since it's constantly exposed to foreign objects and dirt. Keeping the outer ear clean is the first line of defense against ear problems. Begin by examining your dog's ears daily. Healthy ears are light pink inside, with no apparent bad smell or discharge. Next, check for foreign objects. If your dog spends a lot of time outside, especially in tall grasses or wooded areas, she can get foxtails or ticks in her ears. Remove foreign bodies carefully with your fingers, then clean the ear with mineral oil. (Never use soap and water to clean a dog's ears; soapy water can cause an ear infection.) If a foreign body is deeply embedded in the ear or you're not confident about taking it out, have your veterinarian remove it. The old folk method of removing ticks -- burning them with a blown-out match -- is not really very effective. The best way to remove ticks is to grasp one firmly at skin level with tweezers and pull it straight out with a gentle, steady pressure.

Give your dog's ears a complete cleaning weekly or monthly, as needed. (Floppy ears usually need more attention than pricked ears.) Moisten a cotton ball or cloth with mineral oil, olive oil, orwitch hazel, and gently wipe the inside of the ears. Don't use a cotton swab; it's easy to accidentally damage the delicate mechanisms of the inner ear. Certain breeds, such as Terriers and Poodles, have hair growing inside the ear that must be plucked to prevent wax and dirt from collecting. Ask a groomer or breeder to show you how to pluck the hair.

Always be on the lookout for the early warning signs of an ear infection, which is a not-so-uncommon problem for dogs. If your dog constantly shakes her head, has sore or red ears, or if the ears smell bad or have a discharge, take her to the veterinarian. Most infections of this type are caused by lack of air circulation and occur most commonly in breeds with floppy or furry ears. The moist, warm, dark environment is the perfect place for bacteria and yeast to flourish. By catching the early signs, you'll be getting your dog's developing ear infection under control sooner, preventing more serious complications that can lead to hearing loss.

Some areas of the country have regular problems with biting flies. A dog's ears are the perfect target for these annoying little critters, and repeated bites can result in fly-bite dermatitis, which leaves the ears scabbed and prone to bleeding. To help keep your pooch itch-free, apply a pet-safe (not a human strength) insect repellent to your dog's ears before she goes outside.

If your dog shakes her head and paws at her ears frequently but has no other signs of an infection, she could be bugged by ear mites. These tiny, spiderlike creatures invade the ear canal and feed on skin debris. A telltale sign of ear mites is dark debris that looks a lot like coffee grounds. Ear mites are most common in puppies and young dogs, since they're easily spread and pups spend a lot of time on top of each other while playing and sleeping. If you've got other dogs or cats in your home and one of them turns up with ear mites, it's best to treat them all. Most of the safest and more effective remedies are available only through your veterinarian, so don't wait to make the call.

Of course, good old commonsense prevention is the most important thing you can do for your dog's good ear health. Keep the ears clean, dry, and free from foreign objects and substances. Put cotton balls in your dog's ears at bathtime (if she'll stand for it) to keep water out of the ear canal, and dry the ears thoroughly when the bath is over. Most dogs love swimming, so be sure Muffy's ears are clean and dry after taking a dip. When it comes to ear care, an ounce of prevention is truly worth a pound of cure.

Eyes

Like the ears, your dog's "windows to the world" are sensitive organs. Check your dog's eyes daily, and wipe away dried matter from the corners of the eyes using a moistened cotton ball. Examine the eyes for redness, tearing, or discharge. Eye problems that don't clear up within 24 hours should be treated by a veterinarian. Among the eye problems affecting dogs are excessive tearing (usually caused by allergies, infections, injuries, or irritation), conjunctivitis (inflammation of the membrane that lines the eyelid, the conjuctiva), and foreign objects in the eye.

Tearing is especially common in toy breeds such as Poodles. If your dog's eyes seem to be tearing excessively, have your veterinarian take a look at her and see if it's possible to determine what the problem is and how to treat it. In some dogs, however, tearing appears to have no underlying cause. For whatever reason, they just shed lots of tears.

Especially in dogs with white or light coats, even normal tearing can cause dark stains beneath your dog's eyes. To help keep these stains under control, wash the area under the eye frequently using warm water and a cotton ball. Be sure to carefully trim stained hair. Do not use soap near a dog's eyes -- soap in the eye will cause a corneal ulcer.

An unusual amount of discharge in the corners of the eyes or a reddish or "meaty" appearance of the conjuntiva are signs of conjuctivitis. Conjunctivitis is especially common in dogs who ride with their heads stuck out of car windows or spend a lot of time outdoors in windy, dusty weather. In mild cases, conjunctivitis sometimes clears up on its own. If the problem persists, take your dog to the vet for treatment.

Dogs will paw at their eyes to clean them (although most dogs aren't nearly as fastidious as cats), but if you see your dog continually pawing at her eye or squinting, she may have a foreign body in her eye. Examine the eyes in a well-lit room so you don't miss anything. To get a good look, pull down on the lower lid and up on the upper lid. If only one eye appears to be affected, compare it to the other eye to see how they differ. If you can't find anything or if you can't remove the object, take your dog to the vet for treatment.
Bathing A Dog

Dogs don't need to be bathed frequently -- only when they get dirty or smelly -- but it's a good idea to accustom your dog to the bathing process while she's still young and open to new experiences. If you introduce bathtime as a fun, comfortable activity, it will be easier to accomplish when Lady is grown up and weighs 125 pounds.

Once again, follow the Boy Scout motto: "Be Prepared." Have everything you need laid out within easy reach before you start the water: brush, cotton balls, shampoo, and towels. Also, place a rubber mat in the bottom of the sink or tub so your pup won't slip and slide. Then fill it with warm -- not hot -- water.

Now it's time to add the dog. Brush her thoroughly, from the skin out, to remove tangles and loose hair. Tangles and mats only get worse when they get wet, so make sure you remove all of them first. Place cotton balls snugly -- but not deeply -- in your dog's ears to keep out water and soap.

Next comes the fun part: Splashdown! (Make sure you're wearing clothes you don't mind getting wet.) Place your dog in the water, holding her gently but firmly. Wet her from the head down, making sure you keep water out of her eyes and ears. Don't dunk the dog in water. Apply a shampoo specifically formulated for dogs. (Never use human shampoo -- your dog's hair covers her entire body, not just her head, and the dose of ingredients she'll get from your shampoo may be too much for her.) Now, lather her up, working the shampoo down to the skin. If you're bathing a puppy with a flea-control shampoo, make sure it's safe for dogs her age. Always read and follow label directions carefully. Avoid getting the shampoo in your dog's eyes and ears.

Keep talking to your dog during the bath, reassuring her and telling her what a good dog she is (even if she's trying to get out of the tub). Rinse her thoroughly, again using warm water. Be especially careful about getting shampoo in her eyes and ears when rinsing her head. Remove the dog from the tub, tell her what a good pup she is, and towel-dry her until she is damp. If it is hot and sunny, you can let the dog air dry in a wire crate, exercise pen, or other ventilated enclosure. (You don't want her escaping to go roll in the dirt.) Keep rubbing her with a dry towel to speed the process. If sun-drying isn't feasible, commercial pet dryers are available for home use. These are useful to have if you will be bathing your dog frequently or if your pup will grow up to be a very large dog. Otherwise, you can use a blow-dryer (if the dog is not scared of it) on a low, warm setting to finish drying her. Never use a blow-dryer set on hot or high, and avoid putting the blow-dryer too near her. Keep the dog in a warm, draft-free area until she is completely dry, especially if the weather is cold, damp, or windy.

To keep your dog clean and sweet-smelling after her bath, brush her regularly: weekly for a shorthaired dog and as often as daily for a dog with a long or heavy coat. Brushing removes dead hair, dirt, and parasites, and it distributes skin oils to keep Lady's coat shiny and beautiful. Plus, it just plain feels good. If you make bathing and brushing an enjoyable process -- especially with a young puppy -- it'll be a lot easier in the future.

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